If you're a venue buyer searching ice video games for the first time, here's the short picture: ice-games supplies indoor entertainment equipment. Not a video-game publisher. Not a one-brand store. This page is the FAQ I actually use when I talk to B2B customers.
I'm the person who processes commercial requests at ice-games. I've been doing this since 2017, and I've made enough documented mistakes to know where buyers trip. By 2023, my avoidable rework bill was around $27,000. Now I keep the pre-order checklist that stops those same mistakes from going back out.
If you don't see your exact question here, send it to the team. These are the ones that show up constantly, including one you probably didn't expect.
- What does ice-games sell?
- Is an ice amusement game just an arcade table?
- Do you carry a Sony home theater system?
- Can I order a spades card game in bulk?
- How do I choose quality without overpaying?
- How to play Hand and Foot card game?
What does ice-games actually sell?
Let's start with a naming problem. Some people type ice video games before they know our company. It makes sense. We're called ice-games, so search engines assume video games.
In our B2B catalog, video games means commercial arcade video cabinets, not console games. The term ice amusement games is the bigger category: coin-operated or card-payment amusement equipment such as air hockey, basketball, claw machines, and novelty games that make a room feel alive.
We also carry pool tables, ping pong tables, board games, card games, and smaller accessories for lounge areas. If the question is whether ice-games is an indoor recreation equipment supplier, the answer is yes. If the question is whether we only sell video games, no.
I've never fully understood why the search phrases split so cleanly between video games and amusement games. My best guess is that people describe us by whatever they are hoping to put in their venue.
Is an ice amusement game just an arcade table for home use?
This is where I see buyers get stuck. The product photos can look almost identical in a home catalog and a commercial proposal. But the inside of a machine has to handle daily abuse from strangers.
What most people don't realize is that commercial-grade is not a generic sticker. It refers to the cabinet locks, power supply, controls, payment system, and cooling needed for a machine that stays on for hours. A residential game can look cheaper, and sometimes it is cheaper. The issue is how quickly it starts generating repair bills and bad first impressions.
I still regret an early order of decorative arcade-style tables for a lounge because they matched the interior theme. The tables looked great. They couldn't handle the venue hours, and the replacement costs erased the design win. If I'd asked about duty cycle first, I'd have chosen a different configuration.
Does every public game need premium-level hardware? Not necessarily. But you should know which parts are light-duty before they break—not after.
Do you carry a Sony home theater system?
No. I'll save you the wait.
Ice-games doesn't sell Sony home theater systems, and I wouldn't try to talk myself into it just to look full-service. A home theater system is designed for a living room, not for a bar or entertainment venue that runs sound all evening. If your project needs audio, find an A/V integrator who designs for commercial space.
One of my bigger mistakes in meetings was telling a customer that we could probably source audio too because I wanted the whole sum in one order. It added complications, created expectations we weren't built to serve, and took time away from the games order. My answer should have been no, and here's why.
What about a small lounge or private theater? I can't keep you from using a home system there, but I do not have trustworthy durability data for that setup, so I won't pretend to give you any.
Can I order a spades card game in bulk?
Yes, but the label spades card game is a little deceptive. Spades is played with a standard 52-card deck. You don't need a custom board, special tokens, or a separate game kit.
What B2B buyers usually need is quantity and quality. If you're setting up card tables in a bar, community room, or assisted-living lounge, paper cards from the drugstore will not last. Plastic-coated decks are the practical starting point for any area where people pick cards up every day.
In 2021, a card-room setup order went through our team with budget decks and I approved it. Within a month the cards were sticky, curling, and embarrassing to hand to a guest. The replacement order was plastic-coated stock. I should have recommended it the first time.
Does that mean you need the most expensive card stock available? No. It means the first thing a guest touches is not where you cut corners, especially when the difference is only a few dollars per deck.
How do I choose quality without overpaying?
The word quality gets thrown around too easily. I define it by the question: what happens when a stranger pays to play?
If a machine looks scratched, a screen has a dead pixel, or the cue stick feels wobbly, guests notice. They may not say anything, but they decide your venue is tired. Quality isn't decoration; it's the first thing the customer touches. A broken game is not a maintenance problem. It's a brand problem.
That doesn't mean buy the most expensive unit every time. It means ask what breaks, who fixes it, and how long replacement parts take. In 2022 I approved a $6,700 order that checked the product specifications but not the support plan. Two machines developed software issues in the first month. The $890 service call hurt, but the awkward front-desk conversations hurt more.
My last practical tip: include spare parts in the first order. Even simple items like card readers and control boards are easier to have on hand than to explain to a guest why the machine is sleeping all weekend.
How to play Hand and Foot card game
This question shows up often because we sell card games and many facilities run social card nights. Hand and Foot is a partnership game that looks odd at first but moves fast once players get the flow. Rule variations exist, so I'll give the starter version we share with buyers.
- Players split into two teams. Four players is the most common starting point, though larger groups use more decks.
- For a four-player beginner round, start with four to six standard decks, including Jokers. More players, more decks.
- Deal each player two face-down stacks: the hand and the foot. Eleven cards per stack is common. The foot stays down until the hand is empty.
- On each turn, draw from the stock and discard one card. If your group allows taking from the discard pile, settle that rule before the first hand.
- Lay down melds of three or more cards of the same rank. Jokers and twos are wild, but a meld shouldn't have more wild cards than natural cards.
- A meld of seven cards is a book. Many local versions require each team to complete two books before going out.
- Red threes are bonus cards. Black threes are penalty cards if you still hold them at the end of the round.
- The round ends when a player runs out of cards after their team has met the book requirement. Total points from melds, subtract penalty cards, and start over.
That's the 30-second version. The finer rules—like when the discard pile is frozen and how many natural melds are required—vary between groups. If you want the rule sheet we include with our card-game setups, leave it in the order notes. I won't pretend this summary replaces an evening of practice.
